In one of my recent blogs I mentioned Heartworm; an illness that can affect a variety of animals, but primarily affects dogs. Heartworms is a parasite that is transmitted through the bite of mosquitoes that have contracted microfilariae from biting an infected animal. Those microfilariae develop into larvae within the mosquito's body and are then transferred into the skin of a different animal when the mosquito bites them. The larvae uses its new host's skin to travel through its body and into its blood stream and ultimately ends up in its heart. Finally, the worms multiply in the heart until it's essentially clogged with them.
Symptoms, although generally minimal, aren't shown until about six months after the animal is infected, but there is a blood test that can be done that gives quick results. In fact, the test MUST be done and results MUST be negative in order for any sort of preventative can be prescribed. (This is because the preventative can and most likely will kill the dog if it's given to them when the dog is infected.) The veterinary clinic that I worked at had a three-in-one test that tested a dog's blood for heartworm, lyme disease and ehrlichiosis (other parasite borne illnesses).
If the the test is positive there is a treatment course available, but it's quite expensive, extremely hard on the animal and there's no guarantee that it will work. This treatment usually consists of a few days of arsenic based compounds being injected into the infected animal's body followed by a few weeks of inactivity to allow its body to absorb the dead worms. The time of rest is particularly important to the dog's recovery process because if it is too active, dead round worms are likely to be set loose and absorbed into its lungs, causing respiratory failure.
Overall, it's much more inexpensive and much less stressful to prevent against this parasite than taking a chance with your dog's health. There are a variety of preventatives on the market for this purpose and some that even include added protection against other parasites like fleas and ticks. Although, as mentioned earlier, a dog must be tested tested before being prescribed any type of medication for this purpose. Talk to your veterinarian to see exactly what their clinic's policy is on testing and preventatives as some places in cooler climates only require testing every other year and the preventative to be given in the warmer months of the year.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Safeguarding your dog with vaccines...
Dogs, cats and some other pets such as ferrets must receive a series of vaccines beginning at about five to six weeks old, then repeated every three to four weeks until they're twelve weeks to build up an immunity to common contagious viruses. The vaccines must then be given every year for the rest of their lives to continue the protection.
The easiest way to discuss these vaccines is by labeling them as core (ones that are essential to protect against viruses that are found everywhere ) and noncore (vaccines that are only administered in areas where the viruses are a problem).
Core vaccines for dogs include the four way vaccine DHPP because it protects against the four most contagious of viruses that affects them; Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, and Parainfluenza.
Some noncore vaccines include ones against Kennel cough, Lyme disease, and Giardia. These are noncore because some dogs aren't in danger of contracting the illnesses. Kennel cough is airborne and usually only prevalent in places that dogs are kept in closed quarters, hence its name. Lyme disease is transmitted through parasites called ticks, most commonly deer ticks, so dogs that live in apartments etc. aren't in danger of the virus. Giardia is transmitted through beaver stool in stagnant water, so again a dog that doesn't have access to environments hospitable for these conditions wouldn't be at risk.
This is the basic outline of what the suggested vaccines for man's best friend are. Always discuss all of the different options with your veterinarian as, "the doctor knows best" (usually, anyway) as the old adage states.
As this took up much more time and space than I had originally anticipated, my next blog will discuss what vaccines are suggested for our feline friends.
The easiest way to discuss these vaccines is by labeling them as core (ones that are essential to protect against viruses that are found everywhere ) and noncore (vaccines that are only administered in areas where the viruses are a problem).
Core vaccines for dogs include the four way vaccine DHPP because it protects against the four most contagious of viruses that affects them; Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, and Parainfluenza.
- Distemper is an airborn virus that mostly affects the dog's respiratory system and causes diarrhea but can result in sever neurological problems and death if it goes untreated.
- Canine Hepatitis affects the liver and is transmitted through infected dog's bodily fluids like saliva and urine. The virus affects the liver and the dog usually shows no outward sypmptoms of infection like vomiting or diarrhea. This, like Parainfluenza is more just in the mix, rather than a major danger.
- Parvovirus is an extremely strong and nasty virus that is transmitted through the infected feces of dogs. As mentioned in my last blog, puppies are particularly susceptible to this virus and it has a high mortality rate because of dehydration. Treatment is very expensive and owners often euthanize rather than treat for that reason.
- Parainfluenza is a virus that affects the respiratory system and is not necessarily a core vaccine, but comes with the four way automatically.
- Coronavirus is transmitted through the infected feces of animals and causes diarrhea and sometimes vomiting. This virus' symptoms can mimic the ones of Parvovirus, but the diarrhea of a dog with Coronavirus will not have digested blood in it.
Some noncore vaccines include ones against Kennel cough, Lyme disease, and Giardia. These are noncore because some dogs aren't in danger of contracting the illnesses. Kennel cough is airborne and usually only prevalent in places that dogs are kept in closed quarters, hence its name. Lyme disease is transmitted through parasites called ticks, most commonly deer ticks, so dogs that live in apartments etc. aren't in danger of the virus. Giardia is transmitted through beaver stool in stagnant water, so again a dog that doesn't have access to environments hospitable for these conditions wouldn't be at risk.
This is the basic outline of what the suggested vaccines for man's best friend are. Always discuss all of the different options with your veterinarian as, "the doctor knows best" (usually, anyway) as the old adage states.
As this took up much more time and space than I had originally anticipated, my next blog will discuss what vaccines are suggested for our feline friends.
Breeding for profit and the dangers of it...
One thing I have wanted to shed some light on since I started this blog is puppy mills. Actually, I want to talk about all commercial breeding places with the mill stigma attached. These breeding factories, defined as any breeding facility that values profit over the health and welfare of the animals, often exist in extremely poor conditions and make a huge contribution to the companion animal overpopulation crisis in our country every year. The animals bred in these conditions are often sold to pet stores or shipped to unsuspecting buyers with pedigrees that are essentially worthless.
These mills place higher value on money than the quality of animal's lives in many different ways. Often times, dog breeders will mate females every time she goes into heat, every six to nine months, to increase the number of litters, therefore increasing their profits. Well, it's actually not recommended for a female to give birth to more than one litter per year; it's even suggested to skip a year between litters because being pregnant so often is extremely hard on their bodies. This practice actually can drastically reduce the amount of profits these places make because they run they danger of the mother dying in birth an reducing the amount of puppies born or that survive due to the mother's poor health.
Another instance of the high value placed on profit by these places is their very non-selective breeding. They'll try to mate any dog with another until they're basically useless to them, then they discard them. For example, if a female is weak or sick from excessive breeding or anything else, instead of retiring her and letting her enjoy her "golden years," they will try to get one last litter from her which usually kills her. Breeding non-selectively is also dangerous because it often times produces sickly offspring resulting from inherited genetic defects.
Not only are these animals bred in without their welfare in mind, they're also raised this way. Dogs and cats often spend their lives in small cages packed with many other animals, often times in their waste and very rarely get out to stretch or just be free. Spending their time in cages also limits the animal's socialization with people which can cause behavioral problems when they're adopted.
The factors of excessive breeding, non-selective breeding and living conditions all combined are very likely to cause a variety of health problems also. The Humane Society of the United States lists prominent illnesses in puppy mill dogs as:
As for breeding mills, beware of the people referred to as backyard breeders also, as they hold the same beliefs, if you will, of the breeding mills, but on a smaller scale. In short, these people are usually just as ruthlessly money hungry as the larger scale breeders. You can help put an end to these breeding mills by avoiding buying a pet from pet stores or anywhere that doesn't allow you to inspect their surroundings or environment they were housed in. If you can, make adoption from a pet shelter an option and please, share this information with your friends; it's shocking how many people don't know about the dangers of puppy mills. You may also report possible breeding mills to authorities if you suspect abuse or neglect of animals as many states have some laws against animal cruelty.
I understand that there are many causes to fight for, and people, not only animals need help, especially in the state of the economy today. I just urge you to realize that animals have no voice; they're absolutely powerless. The animals that humans have domesticated, in most cases to make our lives easier, now need our help to make their lives easier and they can't ask for it. Please, do what you can, whether it's fostering an animal, donating old blankets, toys, or even just some of your time to a local shelter.
These mills place higher value on money than the quality of animal's lives in many different ways. Often times, dog breeders will mate females every time she goes into heat, every six to nine months, to increase the number of litters, therefore increasing their profits. Well, it's actually not recommended for a female to give birth to more than one litter per year; it's even suggested to skip a year between litters because being pregnant so often is extremely hard on their bodies. This practice actually can drastically reduce the amount of profits these places make because they run they danger of the mother dying in birth an reducing the amount of puppies born or that survive due to the mother's poor health.
Another instance of the high value placed on profit by these places is their very non-selective breeding. They'll try to mate any dog with another until they're basically useless to them, then they discard them. For example, if a female is weak or sick from excessive breeding or anything else, instead of retiring her and letting her enjoy her "golden years," they will try to get one last litter from her which usually kills her. Breeding non-selectively is also dangerous because it often times produces sickly offspring resulting from inherited genetic defects.
Not only are these animals bred in without their welfare in mind, they're also raised this way. Dogs and cats often spend their lives in small cages packed with many other animals, often times in their waste and very rarely get out to stretch or just be free. Spending their time in cages also limits the animal's socialization with people which can cause behavioral problems when they're adopted.
The factors of excessive breeding, non-selective breeding and living conditions all combined are very likely to cause a variety of health problems also. The Humane Society of the United States lists prominent illnesses in puppy mill dogs as:
- Epilepsy
- Heart disease
- Kidney disease
- Deafness
- Endocrine disorders (thyroid)
- Blood disorders (anemia)
- Respiratory disorders
- Musculoskeletal disorders (hip dysplasia and luxating platella, a problem with the knee cap common in poodles)
- Distemper (A disease that mostly affects the respiratory system of both dogs and cats)
- Internal parasites (i.e. round and tape worms, caused by contact with the feces of their infected mothers and other dogs, and flea infestation)
- Fleas
- Heartworm (A parasite that grows in the chambers of the heart, transmitted through mosquitoes, not as common in cats as in dogs)
- Upper respiratory infections (Very common in cats)
- Kennel cough (Comparable to our bronchitis)
- Parvovirus (a very nasty and contagious disease that causes excessive vomiting and diarrhea that usually results in death caused by dehydration. This is a horrible sickness, and younger puppies are the most susceptible it)
As for breeding mills, beware of the people referred to as backyard breeders also, as they hold the same beliefs, if you will, of the breeding mills, but on a smaller scale. In short, these people are usually just as ruthlessly money hungry as the larger scale breeders. You can help put an end to these breeding mills by avoiding buying a pet from pet stores or anywhere that doesn't allow you to inspect their surroundings or environment they were housed in. If you can, make adoption from a pet shelter an option and please, share this information with your friends; it's shocking how many people don't know about the dangers of puppy mills. You may also report possible breeding mills to authorities if you suspect abuse or neglect of animals as many states have some laws against animal cruelty.
I understand that there are many causes to fight for, and people, not only animals need help, especially in the state of the economy today. I just urge you to realize that animals have no voice; they're absolutely powerless. The animals that humans have domesticated, in most cases to make our lives easier, now need our help to make their lives easier and they can't ask for it. Please, do what you can, whether it's fostering an animal, donating old blankets, toys, or even just some of your time to a local shelter.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
The Hedgehog Blog!
The last time we workshopped our blogs in class I received a request from a girl to write one about hedgehogs. She explained that she's going to be moving in with a friend who has one for a pet and she doesn't know anything about them. Well.... either did I. This being the case, I set out on a little research mission and came up with an outline dedicated to hedgehog care, beginning with the basics. (Since I can't figure out how to make an outline on here, I turned it into a Q&A session):
Q. What is a hedgehog?
A. Hedgehogs are small insect eating mammals that are native to places like Europe, Africa and Asia. Since there are no native species to America or Canada the ones that are kept as pets
are Pygmy Hedgehogs from Central Africa.
Q. How do I find a hedgehog that's right for me?
A. First, it's recommended to adopt one straight from a breeder rather than a pet store. This is because a breeder is more likely to know the animals history and parents. Then, when you first pick it up you're going to want to hear it hiss rather than "click" at you. Forget everything you know about cats here as a hedgehog's hiss means fear rather than threat, whereas its "click" is its threat. Hoglets should be six weeks old before they're brought home.
Q. What kind of shelter will my hedgehog need?
A. The hedgehog requires a cage with 24"x24" floor space. If the cage has metal floors and walls you want to be sure it has a top. If you prefer the top of its cage to be open, make sure the walls are glass or slippery plastic. The cage should be kept in a warm place that is free of drafts (~70-80 degrees Fahrenheit).
Q. What should I put in the cage?
A. You should layer the bottom of the cage with Aspen, Pine or white shavings (no cedar) about 2" thick. You should perform a light cleaning of the bedding every day, but a complete change is necessary every week. These animals also like to have places to hide out. A small cardboard box works nice, but keep in mind that it must be change ever 2-3 weeks. Optional, but recommended (by me!); toys!!! C'mon, how would you like to spend your life in a cage with only a box? Why not have a little amusement park? Rodent wheels are alright to use, but hedgehog specific wheels are recommended, as they're lined with mesh that prevents their long legs from getting stuck in them.
Q. What do I feed my hedgehog?
A. There is food made especially for hedgehogs, but cat/kitten food is just as good for them. This can be free fed to hedgehogs that are not obese. Supplements to their dry food, like fruit, veggies, cooked meat, crickets and mealworms, should be give three to four times per week. Be sure its food is in a wide bowl that's a bit on the heavier side to prevent it from dumping it and using it as a toy. Ceramic dishes made for rodents work just fine. Also, a water bottle is preferred over an open dish as hedgehogs tend to get too much debris in a dish and it prevents them from getting enough water.
When you bring your hedgehog home on the first day, put it in its cage and leave it alone for the whole day. It is alright to pick it up and hold it for a few minutes in intervals for the first day but keep in mind that it's going to take about a week for your hedgehog to be fully acclimated to its new environment.
Well... I hope you all learned as much by reading this blog as I did while researching it. Any other questions, feel free to leave me a comment and I'll post an answer. It makes my day when someone takes the time to respond to my blog:) Suggested topics are always welcome!
Q. What is a hedgehog?
A. Hedgehogs are small insect eating mammals that are native to places like Europe, Africa and Asia. Since there are no native species to America or Canada the ones that are kept as pets
are Pygmy Hedgehogs from Central Africa.
Q. How do I find a hedgehog that's right for me?
A. First, it's recommended to adopt one straight from a breeder rather than a pet store. This is because a breeder is more likely to know the animals history and parents. Then, when you first pick it up you're going to want to hear it hiss rather than "click" at you. Forget everything you know about cats here as a hedgehog's hiss means fear rather than threat, whereas its "click" is its threat. Hoglets should be six weeks old before they're brought home.
Q. What kind of shelter will my hedgehog need?
A. The hedgehog requires a cage with 24"x24" floor space. If the cage has metal floors and walls you want to be sure it has a top. If you prefer the top of its cage to be open, make sure the walls are glass or slippery plastic. The cage should be kept in a warm place that is free of drafts (~70-80 degrees Fahrenheit).
Q. What should I put in the cage?
A. You should layer the bottom of the cage with Aspen, Pine or white shavings (no cedar) about 2" thick. You should perform a light cleaning of the bedding every day, but a complete change is necessary every week. These animals also like to have places to hide out. A small cardboard box works nice, but keep in mind that it must be change ever 2-3 weeks. Optional, but recommended (by me!); toys!!! C'mon, how would you like to spend your life in a cage with only a box? Why not have a little amusement park? Rodent wheels are alright to use, but hedgehog specific wheels are recommended, as they're lined with mesh that prevents their long legs from getting stuck in them.
Q. What do I feed my hedgehog?
A. There is food made especially for hedgehogs, but cat/kitten food is just as good for them. This can be free fed to hedgehogs that are not obese. Supplements to their dry food, like fruit, veggies, cooked meat, crickets and mealworms, should be give three to four times per week. Be sure its food is in a wide bowl that's a bit on the heavier side to prevent it from dumping it and using it as a toy. Ceramic dishes made for rodents work just fine. Also, a water bottle is preferred over an open dish as hedgehogs tend to get too much debris in a dish and it prevents them from getting enough water.
When you bring your hedgehog home on the first day, put it in its cage and leave it alone for the whole day. It is alright to pick it up and hold it for a few minutes in intervals for the first day but keep in mind that it's going to take about a week for your hedgehog to be fully acclimated to its new environment.
Well... I hope you all learned as much by reading this blog as I did while researching it. Any other questions, feel free to leave me a comment and I'll post an answer. It makes my day when someone takes the time to respond to my blog:) Suggested topics are always welcome!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Pet Sterilization
This week I'm going to cover some facts and myths surrounding pet sterilization. These surgeries are otherwise commonly known as castration, or neutering, for male pets and an OHE, or spaying, for female pets.
There is much controversy surrounding the necessity of this surgery because of the popular myths regarding it and I want to make the benefits of this surgery as clear as possible, as to expose the risks and/or harm that is likely to be caused by not getting pets sterilized or not getting them sterilized when they are still young.
The absolute clear fact that encompasses all of the others regarding this subject, though, is that the sterilization of pets helps to save companion animal's lives in many ways. For example, if you get your pet sterilized you eliminate the possibility of them reproducing which helps control companion animal population. Their population is a growing crisis and working to gain control of it helps save the lives of either unborn animals or ones waiting patiently in shelters for homes. In short, pet owners play a large part in the ability to control this crisis.
The myths that follow are actual beliefs some pet owners hold about this surgery. I can't recall how many times I received calls from panicky pet owners regarding a sick (from an infection in the uterus or false pregnancy) or possibly pregnant dog or cat and still can't believe some of the excuses people use for not sterilizing their pets. The primary excuse being that the surgery costs too much and they're waiting until they can save enough money for it. A little word of advise to those of you thinking about getting a pet; save up for this surgery eihter before you get it or while you're waiting for it to be old enough to get it! You (especially after reading this, hopefully) know this surgery is a must and keep in mind that it costs a whole lot more to raise a litter and a whole lot more to get the surgery if your pet is pregnant (yes, a female can be spayed if she's pregnant and it's like an abortion, only she can no longer reproduce). There are also many low cost options in place for this surgery and different clinics that do the procedure at discounted rates. Most humane societies also provide vouchers toward this surgery if you adopt a pet from them.
Besides the excuse given above, here are some other myths I've encountered either during my experience at the vet clinic or while surfing the web (it's so handy):
Myth: My pet will get fat and lazy.
Fact: This surgery doesn't have any effect on their metabolism and they're just the same as they were before. In fact, most pets become overweight because of being fed too much and not enough exercise. Pets are meant to be active, some people say for an hour a day, but it really depends on the breed and it's completely different for cats.
Myth: I don't want my dog to feel like less of a man.
Fact: Pets don't have any concept of gender, except for the occasional dominance issues. The fact is that a male can smell a female in heat from a great distance, dog or cat, and will try its hardest to find her if he's not neutered.
Myth: I don't need to neuter my dog, he's not the one having puppies.
Fact: Really? So, a man doesn't have to wear a condom because he's not the one getting pregnant? Come on!
Myth: It's better for them to have a litter before getting spayed.
Fact: I have no idea where this belief arose from or why it's believed. The fact is, every litter born adds on to the almost already staggering companion animal overpopulation crisis. Whether they're found good homes or not, they still take homes away from ones in shelters or out on streets. I once read that 3 to 4 million animals are euthanized every year in animal shelters because they're not adopted. This can be prevented.
Myth: I want my dog to be protective of my house and family.
Fact: Protectiveness is an instinct and has nothing to do with sex hormones.
There is much controversy surrounding the necessity of this surgery because of the popular myths regarding it and I want to make the benefits of this surgery as clear as possible, as to expose the risks and/or harm that is likely to be caused by not getting pets sterilized or not getting them sterilized when they are still young.
The absolute clear fact that encompasses all of the others regarding this subject, though, is that the sterilization of pets helps to save companion animal's lives in many ways. For example, if you get your pet sterilized you eliminate the possibility of them reproducing which helps control companion animal population. Their population is a growing crisis and working to gain control of it helps save the lives of either unborn animals or ones waiting patiently in shelters for homes. In short, pet owners play a large part in the ability to control this crisis.
The myths that follow are actual beliefs some pet owners hold about this surgery. I can't recall how many times I received calls from panicky pet owners regarding a sick (from an infection in the uterus or false pregnancy) or possibly pregnant dog or cat and still can't believe some of the excuses people use for not sterilizing their pets. The primary excuse being that the surgery costs too much and they're waiting until they can save enough money for it. A little word of advise to those of you thinking about getting a pet; save up for this surgery eihter before you get it or while you're waiting for it to be old enough to get it! You (especially after reading this, hopefully) know this surgery is a must and keep in mind that it costs a whole lot more to raise a litter and a whole lot more to get the surgery if your pet is pregnant (yes, a female can be spayed if she's pregnant and it's like an abortion, only she can no longer reproduce). There are also many low cost options in place for this surgery and different clinics that do the procedure at discounted rates. Most humane societies also provide vouchers toward this surgery if you adopt a pet from them.
Besides the excuse given above, here are some other myths I've encountered either during my experience at the vet clinic or while surfing the web (it's so handy):
Myth: My pet will get fat and lazy.
Fact: This surgery doesn't have any effect on their metabolism and they're just the same as they were before. In fact, most pets become overweight because of being fed too much and not enough exercise. Pets are meant to be active, some people say for an hour a day, but it really depends on the breed and it's completely different for cats.
Myth: I don't want my dog to feel like less of a man.
Fact: Pets don't have any concept of gender, except for the occasional dominance issues. The fact is that a male can smell a female in heat from a great distance, dog or cat, and will try its hardest to find her if he's not neutered.
Myth: I don't need to neuter my dog, he's not the one having puppies.
Fact: Really? So, a man doesn't have to wear a condom because he's not the one getting pregnant? Come on!
Myth: It's better for them to have a litter before getting spayed.
Fact: I have no idea where this belief arose from or why it's believed. The fact is, every litter born adds on to the almost already staggering companion animal overpopulation crisis. Whether they're found good homes or not, they still take homes away from ones in shelters or out on streets. I once read that 3 to 4 million animals are euthanized every year in animal shelters because they're not adopted. This can be prevented.
Myth: I want my dog to be protective of my house and family.
Fact: Protectiveness is an instinct and has nothing to do with sex hormones.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Monster care during the colder months...
As I mentioned last week, dogs and cats weren't domesticated so they could be independent. In fact, the result of their domestication is just the opposite and has caused the to be unable to survive in the wild on their own. Considering this information and that the definition of the word "domesticate" is readily accessible and should be common knowledge, especially for pet owners, it's impossible for me to identify with the people who still let their pets roam free. Furthermore, the attempts by owners to justify allowing their pets to roam free that might include acres of private land or pets knowing their boundaries are essentially what you clean up after your pets; crap. This dependence, especially in the wild, is why it's so important to ensure that pets are getting the most optimal, loving care possible.
As a side note: many cats are able to rely on instincts to hunt and survive in the wild. This ability, however causes any other problems, such as spread of disease and overpopulation, that I will address in later blogs. One paw and a time for now...
During my two years of working at a veterinary clinic I encountered a dog that was left outside to roam free for hours in below freezing temperatures. While he was found in a pretty under populated area with little traffic, this elderly dog was still in considerable danger by being outdoors alone. As in my last blog, this sweet dog was brought in by what we at the vet clinic called a "Good Sam;" a person who finds an abandoned or in need animal brings them in for help. This Good Sam was driving along an out of the way road and passed a dilapidated building that was obviously abandoned. As she passed the building the Good Sam saw a dog laying alone outside and became concerned that it was going to run out in front of the car or try to chase her. She slowed down as she passed out of caution and saw something was wrong with the dog and it was unable to stand. The Good Sam feared that the dog had been hit by a car and was injured so she stopped the car to check him out. After she cautiously approached the dog she found that he was unable to stand because he had become frozen to the ground. After somehow carefully prying his bony legs fro the ice below, the Good Sam loaded him into her car and brought him straight to our clinic. When the doctor examined the bewildered dog he found that his joints were in extremely poor condition due to ignored arthritis and probably just gave out because of a mixture of the dog's advanced age, the frigid temperatures, and the arthritis being ignored. After the dog was cared for for a few days at our clinic his condition did not improve, the owner never claimed him, and euthanization was the most humane option because he was unable to stand or walk without being held up.
Coincidentally, the doctor who treated the above dog had a pet that was maimed from being left out in the cold also. A few years before the above incident, a stray cat was brought in by a different Good Sam who had found a cat near his car with a partly severed tail. It turned out that the cat had climbed up under the hood of the car and when the Good Sam started his engine, the fan belt caught the cat's tail and ripped part of it off. The doctor explained that cats often seek heat from recently shut off engines and this sort of thing happens much more than people think. After the doctor fixed up the traumatized cat's tail and no one ever claimed it, he decided to adopt the cat and it went on to live its next eight lives happily.
Now, to help avoid both of the above situations and many potential others, I have gathered some helpful do's and don'ts about caring for our monsters during the cold winter months:
Next week I'll be tackling a little tougher subject; pet sterilization. There are many myths regarding the spaying and neutering of pets, like it makes them lazy, that I will discuss and give some background information on to verify or disprove them.
As a side note: many cats are able to rely on instincts to hunt and survive in the wild. This ability, however causes any other problems, such as spread of disease and overpopulation, that I will address in later blogs. One paw and a time for now...
During my two years of working at a veterinary clinic I encountered a dog that was left outside to roam free for hours in below freezing temperatures. While he was found in a pretty under populated area with little traffic, this elderly dog was still in considerable danger by being outdoors alone. As in my last blog, this sweet dog was brought in by what we at the vet clinic called a "Good Sam;" a person who finds an abandoned or in need animal brings them in for help. This Good Sam was driving along an out of the way road and passed a dilapidated building that was obviously abandoned. As she passed the building the Good Sam saw a dog laying alone outside and became concerned that it was going to run out in front of the car or try to chase her. She slowed down as she passed out of caution and saw something was wrong with the dog and it was unable to stand. The Good Sam feared that the dog had been hit by a car and was injured so she stopped the car to check him out. After she cautiously approached the dog she found that he was unable to stand because he had become frozen to the ground. After somehow carefully prying his bony legs fro the ice below, the Good Sam loaded him into her car and brought him straight to our clinic. When the doctor examined the bewildered dog he found that his joints were in extremely poor condition due to ignored arthritis and probably just gave out because of a mixture of the dog's advanced age, the frigid temperatures, and the arthritis being ignored. After the dog was cared for for a few days at our clinic his condition did not improve, the owner never claimed him, and euthanization was the most humane option because he was unable to stand or walk without being held up.
Coincidentally, the doctor who treated the above dog had a pet that was maimed from being left out in the cold also. A few years before the above incident, a stray cat was brought in by a different Good Sam who had found a cat near his car with a partly severed tail. It turned out that the cat had climbed up under the hood of the car and when the Good Sam started his engine, the fan belt caught the cat's tail and ripped part of it off. The doctor explained that cats often seek heat from recently shut off engines and this sort of thing happens much more than people think. After the doctor fixed up the traumatized cat's tail and no one ever claimed it, he decided to adopt the cat and it went on to live its next eight lives happily.
Now, to help avoid both of the above situations and many potential others, I have gathered some helpful do's and don'ts about caring for our monsters during the cold winter months:
- Do keep your cats indoors during the winter months as they can easily become lost, frozen, or ultimately lose their tails.
- Do wipe off your dog's feet, legs and stomach after bringing them in the house. Your pets might ingest road salt or antifreeze from walking in the snow.
- Don't let your dog off its leash during ice or snow storms because they can lose their scent easily and become lost.
- Don't give your pet a short hair cut during the winter months. If your own a small dog, consider getting them a sweater vest for extremely cold days.
- Don't leave your pet alone in a vehicle. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter and become even colder than it is outside.
- Do increase your dog's food supply if he/she spends a lot of tie with you doing outdoor activities during the winter. The extra food and protein will help to keep them warm and their fur in good condition.
- Do be sure to clean up all antifreeze or coolant spills as these things taste really sweet and yummy but are extremely toxic to pets and humans alike.
- Do choose a safe alternative to road salt to use around your house. The most popular and recommended product is called "Safe Salt" and is not only better for your pet, but also for the environment.
Next week I'll be tackling a little tougher subject; pet sterilization. There are many myths regarding the spaying and neutering of pets, like it makes them lazy, that I will discuss and give some background information on to verify or disprove them.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Caring for Your Monster During the Summer Months.
Dogs and cats weren't domesticated so they could be left to roam town all day or so they could be tied up outside, alone and forgotten about. They were domesticated, mostly, to be companion animals and there are many dangers to leaving an animal unattended outside for long periods of time, free to roam or not. For example, what most people don't realize is that dogs and cats can suffer from many of the same illnesses brought on by sun exposure and high temperatures as people, like dehydration, heat stroke, and sunburn. Actually, animals are at a much higher risk of developing these problems with less exposure to the elements than people due to the way their bodies are designed, especially with their bare paw pads and inability to sweat.
Another thing that puts animals at a higher risk is that they lack the human's arsenal of protective gear, like clothing and sunscreen.
In 2005, while working at a veterinary clinic I witnessed the effects of sun exposure and high heat on a Brittany Spaniel that was left to roam free during one of the hottest days of the summer. He was brought in by a family who had no idea where he came from or who he belonged to. All the family knew was that their son found the dog panting uncontrollably under a tree in their front yard and that he was unresponsive. The family realized that this dog needed help immediately and rushed him into the clinic. When the dog's limp body was lifted onto the examination table the first action the veterinarian took was to take his temperature. It was 106 degrees; about five to six degrees higher than what is normal for the species. Because no one knew the owner or and the dog was not wearing a collar, it was impossible to know how long he had been in this condition or if he was able to be saved. Regardless, the staff went to work immediately to try to lower his temperature with a cold bath, but it was too late and as the doctor put it, his brain was fried. I don't remember how, but the owner was eventually located and the young dog of about five or six was euthanized.
I witnessed this tragedy almost five years ago and can still envision the dog lying limp on the table with his chest violently heaving as his lungs try to pant the heat out of his body and it frustrates me to know that this dog's death and many other animal's deaths can be prevented by something that seems as common sense as not leaving a pet outside on scorching hot days. As a general rule, if it's too hot for you to be outside, it's too hot for your pet to be outside for extended periods of time. This advice goes for all dogs and cats, but there are some breeds with flat faces (Persian cats and Pugs) that owners should be particularly careful with on hot days because they're unable to pant normally like other animals with protruding noses. Panting is particularly important as it's an animal's only self cooling mechanism because of their inability to sweat. Other animals that are of higher risk include those with heart or lung problems and ones that are elderly or overweight. Besides the advice on animal care I gave above, I have also gathered a few tips for caring for pets during the warmer moths and listed them below.
Do's and Don'ts of summer pet care:
*Next week I will shed some light on caring for your monsters during the winter months. A blog that those who live near me in the frozen tundra of Upper Michigan should know a little something about.
Another thing that puts animals at a higher risk is that they lack the human's arsenal of protective gear, like clothing and sunscreen.
In 2005, while working at a veterinary clinic I witnessed the effects of sun exposure and high heat on a Brittany Spaniel that was left to roam free during one of the hottest days of the summer. He was brought in by a family who had no idea where he came from or who he belonged to. All the family knew was that their son found the dog panting uncontrollably under a tree in their front yard and that he was unresponsive. The family realized that this dog needed help immediately and rushed him into the clinic. When the dog's limp body was lifted onto the examination table the first action the veterinarian took was to take his temperature. It was 106 degrees; about five to six degrees higher than what is normal for the species. Because no one knew the owner or and the dog was not wearing a collar, it was impossible to know how long he had been in this condition or if he was able to be saved. Regardless, the staff went to work immediately to try to lower his temperature with a cold bath, but it was too late and as the doctor put it, his brain was fried. I don't remember how, but the owner was eventually located and the young dog of about five or six was euthanized.
I witnessed this tragedy almost five years ago and can still envision the dog lying limp on the table with his chest violently heaving as his lungs try to pant the heat out of his body and it frustrates me to know that this dog's death and many other animal's deaths can be prevented by something that seems as common sense as not leaving a pet outside on scorching hot days. As a general rule, if it's too hot for you to be outside, it's too hot for your pet to be outside for extended periods of time. This advice goes for all dogs and cats, but there are some breeds with flat faces (Persian cats and Pugs) that owners should be particularly careful with on hot days because they're unable to pant normally like other animals with protruding noses. Panting is particularly important as it's an animal's only self cooling mechanism because of their inability to sweat. Other animals that are of higher risk include those with heart or lung problems and ones that are elderly or overweight. Besides the advice on animal care I gave above, I have also gathered a few tips for caring for pets during the warmer moths and listed them below.
Do's and Don'ts of summer pet care:
- Don't leave your pet alone in a vehicle. Even with windows open, on extremely hot or sunny days the car can quickly heat up like an oven.
- Do make sure your pet has plenty of clean, cool drinking water. Avoid giving them ice cubes as they're choking hazards.
- Do make sure they have a cool, shady place to lay in if outside.
- Do bring extra water for your pet and make frequent drink stops when walking or jogging with them on hot days.
- Don't travel with your dog in the bed of the truck. If, for some reason you have to travel with them in the bed be sure the surface they are standing on is slide resistant and not too hot by testing it with your feet.
- Don't bring your pets to festivities that include fireworks as they may become nervous and agitated bu the loud bangs.
- Don't feed your pets human food or drinks at parties as they may become sick. Some things might actually even be harmful to their health such as raisins, onions, and chocolate.
- Some symptoms of an overheating pet include; excessive panting or difficulty breathing, a high fever accompanied by vomiting or bloody diarrhea, increased heart rate, weakness, lethargy, confusion or even collapse. If a pet shows these symptons after being in the sun or heat, call a veterinarian immediately for advice on bringing them in to be examined or treating them at home.
- Another common injury in the summer months involves safety indoors. Treat your pet almost as you would a child when it comes to "proofing" your house and be sure to secure the window screens tightly. This advice is especially for cats or small dog owners as these types of animals generally like to sit in the window sill and look outside as my Monster does.
*Next week I will shed some light on caring for your monsters during the winter months. A blog that those who live near me in the frozen tundra of Upper Michigan should know a little something about.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
